Desolation Sound
Desolation Sound is widely regarded as one of the finest cruising destinations in the world. Located on the BC mainland coast between the Sunshine Coast and the Discovery Islands, it offers warm water, dramatic mountain scenery, pristine anchorages, and abundant marine life.
Why Desolation Sound Is Special
Section titled “Why Desolation Sound Is Special”Despite its name (given by Captain George Vancouver, who found the area desolate compared to the settlements he had left behind), Desolation Sound is anything but:
- Warm water — summer surface temperatures reach 70-75F (21-24C), warm enough for swimming, a rarity in the Pacific Northwest
- Mountain scenery — snow-capped Coast Mountains rise directly from the water
- Protected waters — deep inlets and narrow passages provide shelter from wind and swell
- Marine life — seals, sea lions, eagles, porpoises, and occasional whales
- Prawn and crab fishing — some of the best in BC (license required)
Key Anchorages
Section titled “Key Anchorages”Prideaux Haven
Section titled “Prideaux Haven”The most famous anchorage in Desolation Sound. A complex of sheltered basins surrounded by warm-water lakes connected by short trails.
- Excellent holding in mud
- Room for many boats, though it fills up in peak summer
- Hiking trails to Laura, Melanie, and Unwin Lakes for freshwater swimming
- Stern-tying to shore is common in the inner basins
Tenedos Bay
Section titled “Tenedos Bay”A large, well-protected bay just south of Prideaux Haven:
- Good holding in mud bottom
- More room than Prideaux for boats that prefer swinging at anchor
- Trail access to Unwin Lake
- Less crowded than Prideaux Haven
Grace Harbour
Section titled “Grace Harbour”A long, narrow inlet with excellent protection:
- Two distinct anchoring areas (inner and outer)
- Warm water for swimming
- Good holding
- Scenic waterfall at the head of the harbour in spring
Squirrel Cove (Cortes Island)
Section titled “Squirrel Cove (Cortes Island)”A large, protected harbour on Cortes Island:
- Government dock
- Small store with basic provisions
- Fuel available (check seasonal availability)
- Good base for exploring the surrounding waters
- Protected from all wind directions
Refuge Cove
Section titled “Refuge Cove”A historic supply point for cruisers:
- General store with groceries, ice, and marine supplies
- Fuel dock (gas and diesel)
- Water
- Laundry
- The social hub of the area in summer — cruisers gather to share stories
Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park
Section titled “Desolation Sound Marine Provincial Park”The park encompasses much of the eastern shore of Desolation Sound, including Prideaux Haven, Tenedos Bay, and several smaller anchorages. No fees are charged for anchoring within the park.
Park rules:
- No permanent mooring buoys (anchoring only)
- Pack out all garbage (no facilities)
- Respect the marine environment
- Fires permitted only below the high-tide line (check current fire bans)
Getting There
Section titled “Getting There”Desolation Sound is roughly 85-100 nautical miles north of the Gulf Islands, depending on your route:
From the south: Most cruisers travel up Malaspina Strait from the Gulf Islands, stopping at Pender Harbour or Powell River en route. Plan 2-3 days for the transit.
From Campbell River: Cross Discovery Passage (strong currents — time for slack) and proceed through Calm Channel or Lewis Channel.
From Lund: The traditional launch point. Lund is at the “end of the road” on the Sunshine Coast, with a public dock and small boat ramp. The marina offers fuel and basic supplies. From Lund, it is roughly 15 nautical miles to Prideaux Haven.
Navigation Considerations
Section titled “Navigation Considerations”- Yuculta and Dent Rapids: If approaching from the south via Bute Inlet or from Campbell River, these rapids have currents up to 10-12 knots. Transit at slack only and consult current tables carefully.
- Limited services: Once past Lund or Refuge Cove, there are no fuel docks or provisioning until you return. Plan your fuel and supplies accordingly.
- Cell service: Limited to non-existent in most of Desolation Sound. Download charts and weather forecasts before entering the area.
- Weather: Summer weather is generally stable, but outflow winds from the inlets can be strong and sudden. Monitor VHF weather channels.
Seasonal Notes
Section titled “Seasonal Notes”- Peak season (July-August): Popular anchorages can be crowded. Prideaux Haven may have 50+ boats on a summer weekend. Arrive by early afternoon for the best spots.
- Shoulder season (June, September): Significantly fewer boats. Water may be slightly cooler but still swimmable. Most facilities are open.
- Off-season (October-May): Very few boats. Some facilities (like Refuge Cove) close for the winter. Stunning solitude but be self-sufficient.
Explore Desolation Sound on the map →